A trip to Italy is incomplete without a daytrip into wine country. One could argue that the whole of Italy is wine country, and to that we would whole-heartedly agree. A trip into wine country means a trip deep into wine country, where the grapes are grown and the wine is aged to perfection. A short drive north of Siena, on a winding two-lane mountain road, we experienced a little piece of heaven on earth: Castello di Verrazzano, makers of what has become one of our all-time favorite wines. Even their white wine is good (you lovers of red wine will understand that). 8)
Two kilometers up a one-lane gravel road off SR222 in Greti, Italy and twisting its way through vineyard after vineyard, past rows and rows of grapevines, we reach our destination for what would not only be a wine tour but a lesson in life, love and friendship.

First, we meet Gino, our tour guide, who reminded us of a sedate, Italian version of Robin Williams, with thick accent and an even thicker passion for wine.

Gino introduced us to Pierro, the castle gardener who, for over 40 years, was the head winemaker at Castello di Verrazzano. “Now he can-a make-a vee-no!” Gino exclaimed. Upon retirement, Pierro’s love for the vineyard’s hills and life runs so strongly that he is quite content keeping the gardens trimmed, colorful, alive, and well.



Gino guides us through the history of Castello di Verrazzano, which dates back several centuries into the Estruscan era. He guides us through the history of Chianti and discusses Sangiovese, the main grape used in making Chianti. Then he guides us through the cellars where grapes are dried, stored, and cured to perfection over a 3–5 year period before bottling and shipping.



After cellar tour, Gino directed us to the dining room for our opportunity to taste six of their exceptional products. Castello di Verrazzano also produces extra virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar so we knew a treat awaited us at the table. Italians eat formal meals in many courses, and this special lunch was a five course extravaganza starting with Verrazzano Rosso, the vineyard’s everyday wine, fresh bread with their own extra virgin olive oil, and four cuts of cured meats and salami.

Second course included Castello di Verrazzano Chianti Classico with pasta pomodoro.
Just when we thought it couldn’t get any better, the third course included Castello di Verrazzano Chianti Classico Reservo, the vineyard’s “special occasion” wine with tenderloin of pork accompanied by fava beans. Fans of the movie Silence of the Lambs will appreciate the subtext here. If it doesn’t hit you, rent the movie.
At this point, let me also note that this “wine tasting” lunch, which typically means a sip or two of each wine, resulted in several empty bottles at our table as we were poured a proper glass instead of a mere sip. An empty bottle is a happy bottle.
Fourth course included a chunk of fresh Parmesan cheese paired with a teaspoon of Castello di Verrazzano Balsamic Vinegar. When mixed together in your mouth, to call this an explosion of flavor is quite an understatement. We’ll try this at home when we return, but I fear it will be a mere shadow of this experience given the fact that a 100ml bottle of their balsamic vinegar (about one inch around and five inches high) sells for €45, roughly $65. Quite simply, the single best balsamic vinegar we’ve had … ever.
Fifth course included a lemon sponge cake with Castello di Verrazzano Vino Santo (“holy wine”), the vineyard’s white dessert wine that, of course, was fabulous. We don’t even like sweet wine, but this is one well-deserved exception. The photo below shows the drying process of grapes that will become the next vintage of Castello di Verrazzano Vino Santo.

At lunch, we met a family from Sydney, Australia who became fast friends over the succulent food and exceptional wine. “That’s the thing with wine,” Gino says. “The grapes were here before we were. The earth and soil was here before the grapes. In centuries past, wine was more pure than drinking water, and winemakers crafted a gentle product deeply tied to the earth to bring people together for friendship.” Our table was last to leave, a full 90 minutes after others had departed.

Mid-October in Central Italy’s winemaking region of Tuscany where Sangiovese grapes are crafted in Chianti wine brings a colorful change of seasons. A time when grape leaves turn a bright yellow as the earth prepares for winter slumber before starting the growing process all over again.

At tour’s end as Gino expressed his passion for life and wine … a passion that expresses itself in a retired winemaker turned gardener, a passion about the simplicity of wine which “was first made by primitive man” many centuries ago … we exited a door bearing this simple handle, and its subtle significance appropriately concluded the festivities.

So, when in the right time to drink wine? In the great words of Gino, “Een a few mee-neets.”
Cheers. ~gregory & meghann